 It s argued that no American landscape could be more beautiful than Yosemite Valley, and three and a half million visitors every year back up that claim... but you shouldn t let the crowds discourage you from visiting. Ninety-five percent of the park is backcountry wilderness, and compared to the main valley, it s every bit as stunning, but without the wall-to-wall tourists. Hosts Chris Turner and Joanna Curlee find the best way to experience the beauty of the park with solitude and comfort is to book a trip to the High Sierra Camps. Besides breathtaking views, each of five camps provides tent cabins with beds, fully-prepared meals and hot showers. There are no roads to the camps, so all guests and gear arrive by foot or by pack mules. Chris and Joanna choose the latter, and experience the Merced River Canyon from the saddle, letting the mules do the climbing as they gaze upon Half Dome and Nevada Falls. Yosemite is the birthplace of modern rock climbing, so Chris and Joanna pay their respects to the glacier-sculpted cliffs and ascend a short but challenging slab in the Valley. At Yosemite s finest lodge, the Ahwahnee, the kitchen has as great a reputation as the surrounding park. Chef Percy Whatley prepares a gourmet organic lamb roast with lavender spice and an artichoke-potato side dish.