 New Zealand s greatest secret destination is Southland: aptly named, as it s on the southernmost tip of the South Island. Here, you can enjoy solitude in a vast and open land, ranging from rocky coastline to old-growth forest, and from pastureland to golden, gorse-lined river valleys. On the fringes of Fiordland National Park, the Hump Ridge Track beckons the adventurous backpacker to ascend from the beach to high alpine tundra with incredible vistas. Host Chris Turner enjoys a three-day hike (the locals say "tramp") through this landscape, admiring the views from the ridge as the track snakes around eerie sandstone monoliths, and braving close encounters with the sassy kea - the world s only alpine parrots. Afterwards, Chris heads inland with local fishing guide, "Bunny" Burgess, to cast flies for brown trout on the world-famous Mataura River. Here, in a hidden streamlet, he lands a ten-pound trophy after an epic struggle. Tired and hungry, Chris relaxes at nearby Nokomai Station, an historic shepherd s retreat, recently renovated into a charming B&B. Here, a local chef grills up a fillet from one of Chris s smaller catches, and presents it on a bed of local greens.